The victim: Estate (Whirlpool) washing machine, circa 2003
The crime: Upon entering the spin or agitation cycles, the tub won't move and it makes a horrible noise.
So, as I read more about this washing machine I'm going to add to this article. Feel free to follow along.
After some initial study, these are the problem areas that can cause this problem that I'll be looking into:
- motor coupler
- transmission
- brake (hasn't released?)
- belt
- pump (obstruction)
- motor pivot
- trunk bearings
- basket drive block
- brake and drive tube
- clutch
Motor coupler: After removing the housing, pump and motor, I inspected the three parts that make up the coupler between the motor and transmission. There were no cracks or visible defects.
Transmission: Watched this video:
Using the method described in the video, I put the washer into the spin cycle and tried to move the tub by hand. It would not move easily at all. Based on this information and the video, I am assuming the transmission is alright.
Update 12/26/2011 2:00 pm
Alright, so now that the holiday has past I'm back to the honey-do list. So far today I found an article by Dave Harnish where he describes a quick fix for Whirlpool & Kenmore washer brake lockup problems. So I followed his tip, which involves adding high-temp grease to the inside of the brake drum, and the tub moves easier but it still won't spin and still sounds terrible.
Ugh...
Update 12/26/2011 5:00 pm
Although I probably should have done this a bit sooner, I checked the pump for obstructions.
Unfortunately I found no socks or thongs. Double ugh...
Ok, so let's just recap where we stand with the possible culprits:
motor coupler- no visible defectstransmission- tub does not move freely in spin cyclebrake (hasn't released?)- greased brake drumbelt- direct drive model (no belt)pump (obstruction)- no obstructions in pump or in visible area of drain hose- motor pivot
- trunk bearings
- basket drive block
- brake and drive tube
- clutch
Update 12/28/2011 6:55 pm
After reassembling the machine from the front, I drained it and laid it on its back. This allowed me to remove the motor/clutch/gearbox assembly. After some more study I decided that the problem was indeed with the clutch. So after a quick run to the local appliance parts store... I ended up replacing a perfectly good clutch. At least I can scratch "piss away $52" off my to-do list. Consequently, I can also scratch off the problem being with the clutch.
So, here we go again:
motor coupler- no visible defectstransmission- tub does not move freely in spin cyclebrake (hasn't released?)- greased brake drumbelt- direct drive model (no belt)pump (obstruction)- no obstructions in pump or in visible area of drain hose- motor pivot
- trunk bearings
- basket drive block
- brake and drive tube
clutch- replaced (new clutch)
No comments:
Post a Comment